A joint research group led by Specially Appointed Associate Professor/Guest Professor Hiroko Kato at Laboratory of Advanced Cosmetic Science of Graduate School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, the University of Osaka, and Professor Noorma Rosita Badjuri and Professor Tristiana Erawat at Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy of Airlangga University (Indonesia), and Mandom Corporation, has confirmed that aleurites moluccanus oil has the effect of elongating eyelashes and clarified its growth mechanism.

Aleurites moluccanus oil, extracted from the seeds of aleurites moluccanus tree is used mainly in Southeast Asia to moisturize, add shine to hair, and promote hair growth. Due to its anti-inflammatory properties, it has also been used to treat eczema and other skin troubles. However, its elongation effect on eyelashes has not been clarified so far as there are many unknowns about the detailed mechanism of hair growth.

The researchers have revealed that aleurites moluccanus oil promotes to grow Japanese women’s eyelash without causing pigmentation around the eyes. The mechanism of action was revealed to be that aleurites moluccanus oil increases the expression of AKR1C family enzymes "AKR1C1," "AKR1C2," and "AKR1C3," thereby further promoting the secretion of "PGF2α," a substance known to promote hair growth.

Growing healthy eyelashes is thought to improve the function of protecting the eyes from foreign objects while also improving aesthetic function. This is expected to increase confidence in one’s appearance and boost self-esteem, satisfaction, and happiness. Furthermore, appropriate eyelash care will help to improve the quality of life (QOL) of people who have an inferiority complex about thin eyelashes and are thought to have a positive impact not only on physical function but also on emotional and social aspects.

Research Background

Eyelashes serve both protective and aesthetic functions for eyes. Most women may aspire to have long, lush eyelashes, and maintaining healthy eyelashes is important not only for protecting the eyes but also enhancing their positive impressions. Also, there is a certain number of people who suffer from eyelash hypotrichosis due to aging, skin diseases, and side effects of medication.

Aleurites moluccanus oil has been traditionally used for skin and hair care purposes in Indonesia and other Southeast Asia regions. It is used to moisturize and add shine to hair and promote elongation and is incorporated as part of Jamu. Aleurites moluccanus oil also has anti-inflammatory properties and has been used to treat eczema and other skin troubles. However, its elongation effect on eyelashes has not been clarified as there are many unknowns about the hair growth mechanism.

Research Contents

The research group applied a sample containing aleurites moluccanus oil to the eyelashes of 15 Japanese women and examined the growth degree of eyelashes. The results showed that the sample containing the oil significantly elongated the eyelashes compared to the sample without it (Fig. 1). Pigmentation around the eyes was not observed in this test.

Next, the research group attempted to elucidate the hair growth mechanism of aleurites moluccanus oil using human hair follicle and epidermal cells. When aleurites moluccanus oil is applied to human’s hair follicles, the hair elongates. Its degree has a hair growth effect comparable to that of bimatoprost, which is used as a treatment for glaucoma, known to its effect to promote eyelash growth (Fig. 2) Furthermore, it has been confirmed that aleurites moluccanus oil increases the expression of AKR1C family enzymes involved in the production of PGF2α, a factor that promotes hair growth (Fig. 3). It was also found that production of PGF2α has increased (Fig. 4). This suggests that aleurites moluccanus oil enhances the activity of AKR1C family enzymes and increases the production of PGF2α.

Fig. 1 Hair growth effect of aleurites moluccanus oil
Credit: Hiroko Kato

Fig. 2 Hair growth effects of aleurites moluccanus oil
Credit: Hiroko Kato

Fig. 3 Expression of AKR1C family enzymes induced by aleurites moluccanus oil
Credit: Hiroko Kato

Fig. 4 Increased PGF2α by aleurites moluccanus oil
Credit: Hiroko Kato

Social Impact of the Research

Growing eyelashes not only improves the physical function of eye protection from foreign objects but is also thought to be an important factor in contributing to improving consumers' QOL which refers to mental stability and happiness in daily life, such as raising self-esteem and emotional satisfaction. By further clarifying mechanisms of hair growth based on the research result, it is expected that this will lead to the proposal of new treatments for eyelash hypotrichosis and alopecia.

Note

This research will be presented at the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) 2025 held in Cannes, France from September 15 to 18, 2025 as a title of “Eyelash Growth Cosmetics Containing Aleurites moluccanus (AMS) Oil”.